M’Pai bay on the secluded island of Koh Rong Samloem is a quiet Backpackers retreat that has managed to stay away from the hoards of tourists doing the classic Cambodian Backpacking Routes. This bay has a special character that has been carefully sculpted by a group of Nomad’s, Expats and locals to offer a dreamlike escape from the nearby noise of Koh Rong. 

On first arrival to this sleepy fishing village, you may feel like there is very little to do here but get to know this beautiful bay and your days will be full of adventure, lively evenings and tasty meals. 

Swim with Bioluminescent Plankton

When night falls, the waters of M’Pai Beach erupt into a bright blue glow with the slightest movement. A truly magical experience that felt more like a scene from Avatar than real life. Simply wait until dark and use a torch to trek across the bridge and dirt track to M’Pai main beach. Here there is virtually no light pollution and vast areas full of Bioluminescent plankton. Seeing Bioluminescent Plankton is one of those rare natural phenomena that leaves you feeling immensely grateful for being able to travel to see the wonders of our natural world. 

Kayak round to Koh Koon

This island is a pyramid of palm trees and jungle that is located just 400 Metres off the shore of M’Pai Bay and takes just 20 minutes to paddle to. Koh Koon is completely uninhabited, but the surrounding reefs are some of the very best snorkelling in Koh Rong Samloem. The Last Tree snorkelling spot around the south side of the island is a popular diving spot, known for an array of coral species and tropical fish as well as, larger marine life like large shoals of barracuda, turtles and even blacktip reef sharks. You can rent kayaks from many of the beachfront hostels for as little as $5 an hour. Be sure to only make this trip on calm days as the channel in between the two islands can pick up a strong current. 

Paddle board into the Sunset

The best place to watch the sunset in M’Pai Bay is on a paddle board overlooking the red sun setting alongside Koh Rong Samloem. Rent a paddle board and paddle around the small peninsula to the left of M’pai Bay if you are looking out to sea. Once you’ve paddled round sit back on your paddle boards and watch nature’s show begin. 

Watch the sunset at sunset viewpoint 

If paddle boarding isn’t for you and you want to stick to dry land to watch the sunset with friends over a beer, then Sunset Viewpoint is the best place for you. Marked on Google Maps, walk away from the town, pass Beach House Cambodia, over a small bridge and follow the rocks out onto the peninsula where a small bench is positioned perfectly for a a cinematic sunset view. 

Have a homemade breakfast bagel at Seapony Café 

As a bagel connoisseur back home, I don’t say this lightly, this is the best bagel I’ve eaten not just in Asia but maybe even my entire life.  Handmade Bagels are filled with generous helpings of fresh toppings, from crispy bacon, hollandaise, fresh eggs, avocado, cheese, spinach, mushrooms, freshly crushed cashew pesto the list goes on and on. This is the best breakfast spot in the bay and reminds me of the quality that pours out of Bali’s famous cafés without having to fight off another tourist for a table. 

Go snorkelling at dawn 

The early wake-ups are rewarded by solo snorkelling panoramas featuring undisturbed marine life. Unfortunately, the boat traffic around M’Pai Bay slowly pollutes its crystal water throughout the day and scares away much of its underwater life. By far the best snorkelling experiences on Koh Rong Samloem are located just behind Cliff Hostel, where you can swim from Backdoor snorkelling spot all the way to Pink Mountain snorkelling spot along incredible reefs.

Morning tree house yoga sessions 

Every morning at 8 am Beach House Cambodia hosts a treetop yoga session overlooking the sea. The Yoga instructors will guide you through the movements and will ease you into a calmer state of mind, body and spirit. All abilities are welcome, and it is one of the best ways to start the day. 

Experience French cooking at Flamebèe

Flambée is run by an incredibly talented and professional French chef, that could fool anyone into thinking they were back in Europe. Each mouthful lets you know that despite the relaxed vibe of the restaurant every flavour has been thought through very seriously. Serving a mixture of French/Italian cuisine and a creative mix of expertly crafted cocktails this is by far the most impressive dinner you’ll have in M’Pai Bay. 

Hike to Clear Water Bay

Clear Water Bay is undoubtedly one of Cambodia’s most beautiful and untouched beaches. To get here from M’Pai Bay will take 1 hour and a half and you’ll need to walk to the other side of M’Pai beach and then trek alongside the coastline through a tricky, rocky small jungle path that leads you to Clear Water Bay. Once you see this beach all the effort is immediately worth it for crowd-less tropical perfection. 

Stroll to M’Pai Main Beach 

If you want an easier trek, simply walk 10 minutes towards M’Pai main beach. You can access this beach via a small dirt track that you’ll find if you wander towards the right side of the beach. These white sands stretch for 4kilometres and provide plenty of natural shade under the cover of palm trees 

Scuba-diving Trip

Visit M’Pai Bays’ very own diving centre, Bubbles Up Diving Centre. This Dive school offer Padi certification, fun dives and open water qualifications in the stunning diving spots that surround Koh Rong Samloem. 

Feeling Hungry? Visit Two Duck Burgers 

If you want a big meal and a taste of home Two Duck delivers time and time again! KFC chicken burgers, loaded fries, beef burgers complete with bacon, cheese and pickles and daily specials. 

Sunset drink at Cliff Hostel’s bar and restaurant

If you want to enjoy the sunset over dinner and a cocktail, then Cliff Hostel’s bar and restaurant is the perfect place. This simple yet stunning location is a great place to drink with mates lounging on the edge of the cliff with only the sun slipping beneath the waves in front of you.

Is Koh Rong Sanloem worth it?

M’Pai Bay on Koh Rong Samloem is one of our favourite Cambodian island backpacking experiences. Every backpacker is immediately embraced as a key part of this small community and this warm welcome will have you settled and ready to explore in no time. Your days will always be full of adventure as you explore the natural beauty of this inlet and by night you can embrace the beautiful backpacker spirit and infectious positivity that seems to be inherent in everyone who lives here. 

But much like the discovery of Koh Rong, we know this bay won’t be a treasured secret forever. So load up the backpack and visit M’Pai Bay as soon as you can!